Istanbul, Day 2

  We got a good start on the day with our roof top breakfast buffet. We also sat in the rooftop lounge for a few to take in the scenery. First we checked the Blue Mosque off our list. This is a functioning mosque so the vibes inside are a little bit different. You could see men up front praying, and some women in the screened off section that falls behind the visitor area.

Blue Mosque

   Another must see attraction down, we started on the lesser known attractions. There are literally pieces of history everywhere that you can see for free, like the Hippodrome. But we had to get into the Underground Cistern, so we shelled out a few Lira to go down under the city. Hundreds of pillars support the ceiling of this underground reservoir. The space was very impressive, and it was interesting to see some ancient recycling. The pillars are a mix of different styles, and there were two bases worth seeing. They were carved gorgon heads - pretty neat stuff. They even get to put in a sign "Medusa -->"

Cistern

   Lunch on the cheap that day was a failure. We tried out some of the street carts and a corner kebab place, but really should have known not to get excited. All over the city are guys hawking grilled corn, and it smelt and looked delicious when we were hungry. Sadly, it tasted like charred plastic with a dash of salt. The sesame bread rings weren't much better, but were atlas edible. We also split the world's worst chicken pita. Thankfully, none of it cost very much. We picnicked in another park though, and it was very well kept. Spotless and with fountains, gazebos, and statues, it is the nicest public space I've been in while abroad.

This guy with delicious (looking) corn

   For dinner, we made one last food mistake. We weren't very hungry and decided to just grab some yogurt dip on out hostel's street. My god it was awful. Our waiter was excessively friendly, and got us complimentary rake shots. I saw him pour them so I wasn't surprised when I drank what was mostly water in a miniature shot glass. After spending too much on yogurt (and being asked to pay for extra bread) we made out escape, despite promises of a fire show later in the evening. We regrouped and researched the best place to grab some nargile. 

  We hiked down the street a ways and found the back alley hang out described online. It was crowded (with locals thank god) and filled with smoke. We were mistaken for Spanish and seated in a small room with some Spanish students and their Argentinian teacher. It was interesting and fun.

a more authentic street scene

   I might as well put in a bit about the tea culture. I have been tea starved in Greece. There is only one tea ever offered, and it just plain sucks. First I had some of the Turkish black tea, and it was pretty good. Then I discovered their apple teas, and I have gotten pretty hooked. Tea is always served in small tulip shaped glasses with sugar, spoon, and dish. It is cheap and everyone drinks it all day. Shop keepers will order tea for delivery. It comes via waiter on a hanging tray, and the empty glasses are picked up later. I really liked all the tea I had, and was glad it was such a big part of the culture.

park filled with tulips